Marriott prototype restaurant as ‘un-hotel’ as possible

By Kevin Wilson
Contributing editor

TORONTO - While the name and the interior may have changed, the crab cakes haven’t changed at Trios Bistro.

Indeed, said cakes, more crab than filler, even hearken back to Trios’ predecessor, JW’s Steakhouse in the Marriott Toronto Downtown Eaton Centre, proudly bearing the name JW’s Crab Cakes.

The revamped and rebranded restaurant adjacent to the hotel lobby is part of a multi-million dollar renovation of the hotel’s guestrooms and common areas, according to Marriott Toronto Downtown Eaton Centre food and beverage manager Frank Strippoli.

"We’re the first Marriott in Canada to do this," said Strippoli, adding that the new eatery and common areas will likely serve as a template for other Marriott-branded hotels in Canada.

On the food side, executive chef Morgan Wilson told CLN that his focus is on "keeping it as ‘un-hotel’ as possible," with an emphasis on playful approaches to bistro food that don’t lapse into pretentiousness.

"We want people to have fun here," he added.

The inspiration for Trios comes from the neighbourhood, and Trinity Square, which is visible from the restaurant’s windows.

While the signature crab cakes are a holdover from the old JW’s menu, Wilson’s Trios menu leans towards bistro classics, updated. The dinner menu breaks down into four categories; bistro, casual, fresh and grilled, with some items changing weekly. Entrees range from a $26 confit duck leg served with succotash and baby leeks to an Marriott prototype restaurant as ‘un-hotel’ as possible $11 char-grilled beef burger. Side dishes are seasonal and are ordered separately at a cost of $5. The wine list features an array of old and new-world wines served by the glass, with bottle service also available.

The re-branded restaurant has a capacity to seat up to 120 people, although the main dining area feels much more intimate. Rich woods and curving lines are key design elements, as is the massive, rectangular 12-seat ‘community table’ which serves as Trios’ focal point.

Anyone can sit at the community table, with the idea being for guests who may not have a dinner date to have an opportunity to sit down with other travellers seeking companionship during dinner.

While the community table represents an opportunity for strangers to become friends, a smaller, circular banquette shielded by a beaded curtain offers small parties a chance to dine in a more private setting. Trios’ overall design was handled by New York City-based fi rm BBGM.

Trios Bistro, Marriott Toronto Downtown Eaton Centre, 525 Bay St., Toronto, 416-204-9018, 120 seats, 2,000 sq. ft. (approx). Average cheque $80 (for two, with a glass of wine.)